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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.